Archive for June, 2010

Sealing against draughts and wind infiltration:

This work should be carried out on the outside of the insulation layer, of external walls, roof and ground floor, especially at critical junctions, such as at roof eaves, attic trap doors, chimneys/fireplace, dormer roofs and attic conversions, caulking and taping joints between block work walls and window frames. Also, opening sashes of windows and doorframes not draught-sealed, gaps around pipes, cables and cavity block walls that are dry-lined on the inside.

Reducing heat loss through the building fabric

Roof/Attic: To be well insulated, roofs or attics should be fitted with about 400mm of mineral or glass wool insulation or other high performance, rigid insulation boards to thickness of say 250mm, that achieve similar performances in thermal transmittance (U-value – measured in watts per sq metre, per degree Kelvin). I hope to deal with this topic in a later blog.

Insulation to attic floors:

The insulation should be laid on a continuous, vapour resisting, airtight membrane that is sealed at all joints and junctions and to adjoining external walls. This is to prevent warm vapour laden-air in the habitable rooms of the house from driving through the permeable ceiling plaster, where it seeks to stabilise pressure with the colder, lower vapour pressure air above in attic space or outside the building. It is critical that this membrane should be fitted on the inside, warm surface of the insulation to prevent condensation and dampness forming within the insulation and where the temperature of the airtight membrane will always be maintained above the dew point. The trapdoor to the attic should also be draught sealed like an external door. More recent houses may have a foil-backed plasterboard ceiling. This helps, but in my opinion is not sufficient, as un sealed gaps occur at joints, allowing warm vapour-laden air to drive into the insulation and cold attic space.

Energy Retrofitting our Existing Homes (Part 2)

Welcome back!

I hope you find you’re getting some value for time spent reading my blogs.

In my last, short introductory blog on the topic of ‘Retrofitting our Existing Homes’, I highlighted a number of typical questions that householders have been asking me on this subject. There are so many building types, construction methods, materials, heating and insulation standards that apply to our homes. There is also the financial circumstances and lifestyles that vary from one household to another. But for most existing Irish houses, energy related issues and challenges can be grouped into types that are often quite common. For most situations, suitable technological and retrofit options are available to choose from that are reasonably well tested and proven to perform effectively and continue to be durable over long time spans.

New features introduced to Home Energy Saving Scheme

As from June 8th 2010, Sustainable Energy Authority of Ireland (SEAI) has introduced new measures to the Home Energy Saving Scheme.

Since the scheme was launched in March 2009 over 58,000 homeowner applications were approved.

The introduction of an online self survey is now available on the SEAI’s website; the survey will only take a couple of minutes to complete and will guide householders towards the most suitable upgrade works.

Householders who apply for the HES grant on or after Tuesday 8th June will be required to use the new application system/form. A Building Energy Rating (BER) will also become an integral part of all grant applications under the HES Scheme from this date. All homeowners must undertake a BER to measure the impact of the works undertaken. Homeowners will also receive a BER certificate with an A-G performance rating, which will inform them of the effectiveness of the upgrade works of energy & Co₂ improvements. Grant Aid of €100 is available towards BER Assessment.